In this years’s Ritsch, the 2006 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese has an almost impossible act to follow. But at Loewen’s behest, follow it did. Orange blossom and tangerine scent the nose. With an oily richness of texture, pure vanilla cream studded with orange zest, and intimations of distilled herbal essences mingle salaciously on the palate. That contradictory concentration of 2006 is present yet again, as this practically floats off in the finish. And perhaps, when you drink it, you’ll feel as though you are levitating as well. Yet, a stony slate foundation is also part of the experience. Today, this cannot compare with the Ritsch for complexity, seductiveness, or sheer magic. But in the long run – meaning at least 40 years – I would not count it out.The Mosel’s greatest champion of once-great but recently-neglected sites and one of German viticulture’s most tireless outside-the-box thinkers in the search for quality, Karl-Josef Loewen took extra efforts in 2006 including adding supplemental pickers who helped him harvest in only ten days. He did not begin until October 8, believing that “before then, the ripeness just wasn’t there.” Loewen is notoriously fearless when it comes to harvesting botrytis, but he tended toward more whole-cluster pressing than usual to help guard against impure elements of rot. In an exciting development, beginning this year, Loewen is taking the lead with Carl Schmitt-Wagner in farming the latter’s ancient Riesling in Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300