If you’ve never seen the winery’s estate, it’s wide open to the fog and winds of San Francisco/San Pablo Bay, so even in a hot vintage like this, their Chards possess keen acidity that gives them a steely minerality. It’s not a particularly ripe wine, but shows tart citrus flavors, while new French oak adds a much-needed creamy richness. This is a terrific food Chardonnay, not one that needs to be appreciated by itself.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 87