A solid effort that’s missing out on the richness for a better score. It’s well structured, with juicy, citrusy acidity, and there’s certainly some pretty oak. The flavors also veer toward citrus fruits, with suggestions of tart green apple. Turns peppery-astringent on the finish. Give it a few hours to breathe, and it will soften up. ——S.H.(5/1/2004)—— 89