I have previously written about the history of this small vineyard (5 acres) owned by Vincenzo Muccioi, who founded a community to deal with the rehabilitation and health care of young drug addicts. Within this community he established a private vineyard known as San Patrignano, which is worked by more than 1,800 former addicts in different stages of rehabilitation. Riccardo Cotarella donates his time to help fashion a limited cuvee of spectacular Sangiovese. The 1999 Avi is the finest yet produced. Unfortunately, there are only 200 cases. Aged in French oak, and bottled without fining or filtration, its dry extract number of 38.5 grams per liter is one of the highest I have seen. Keep in mind this is a 100% Sangiovese. My tasting notes said, "the Bryant Family Vineyard of Sangiovese." That probably says it all for anyone who has tasted Bryant Family's marvelous Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Yields were one ton per acre (or, to put it another way, one bottle of wine per three vines). This large-scaled, super-dense, concentrated Sangiovese should be tasted by California producers so they can understand just what heights this grape can achieve, and how far they are from producing legitimate Sangioveses. Long, concentrated, and filled with notes of grilled herbs intermixed with blackberry and kirsch liqueur fruit, and a touch of spicy new oak, this opulent, voluptuous offering is a thrill to drink. Anticipated maturity: now-2010.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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