Vincent Ogereau's floral and mineral-scented 1997 Coteaux du Layon St.-Lambert is medium-bodied, fresh, and offers loads of candied almond flavors. Well-concentrated and harmonious, this expressive, persistent wine would have merited an outstanding score if its texture had not been somewhat pasty. Drink it over the next 12 years. Importer: VOS Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 967-6948.