The Spannier 2007 Molsheimer Riesling trocken S reflects higher-elevation, yet-cooler and -breezier parcels than those in Hohen-Sulzen, and barely gravel-covered, iron-rich mother chalk. It was not picked until November 10. This is densely-concentrated and loaded with chalk, salt, citrus zest, cherry, almond, fruit pit, and herbs, for a piquant, pungent personality. At the same time, there is a real sense of dynamics and lift, as well as plenty of finishing refreshment and sheer cling. The results should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Oliver Spanier farms organically and, increasingly, biodynamically in the southwestern corner of Rheinhessen, which benefits from the cool breezes of the so-called Eisbach Valley, and hence from potentially above-average hang-time. As part of the married Gillot-Spanier team (see elsewhere in this report under Kuhling-Gillot) he is a prime example of the excitement (and increasingly high prices) that young growers in former “hinterlands” are generating. (If one goes back hundreds of years, though, the chalky vineyards of Rheinhessen’s Wonnegau sub-region enjoyed prestige.) I tasted only a portion of this estate’s 2007s and shall render a fuller report on Spanier’s yet-better 2008s.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799