The leanest effort here is the 2001 Pinot Noir Van der Kamp Vineyard from a Sonoma Mountain appellation. Crisp, tart acids recall a cold Burgundy vintage. Notes of apple skins, pomegranate, and sweet and sour cherries characterize this medium-bodied, austere, firmly structured Pinot Noir. It will probably not develop or flesh out, so consumption over the next 5-7 years is recommended. Readers should not forget the enthusiastic reviews I gave to some of Siduri’s Santa Barbara area offerings in issue 149. Siduri is one of my favorite wineries, although I have yet to visit with winemaker Adam Lee, who does such a fine job. Tel. (707) 578-3882; Fax (707) 578-3884