Tart lemon and peach inform the Diel 2009 Riesling trocken Nahestein – for more on whose origins see my review of the 2008 in issue 187 – which incorporates a bit of astringency by way of flavors of fruit skin and pits, and a stony suggestion that promotes some sense of austerity. The Diels’ aim with this cuvee is to offer a wine of stuffing (here close to 13% in alcohol) yet refreshment and in that aim they have been at least moderately successful on this occasion. I’d plan to drink this over the next couple of years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300