One of the world’s great values in Viognier is the 2005 Viognier Kathy’s Cuvee. For $15, this is one heck of a wine, offering smoky, Condrieu-like, notes of litchi nuts, honeysuckle, bees wax, and plenty of apricot and peach fruit. Although it will only last another 12-14 months, it is a stunningly exotic, flamboyant, dry white. Tel. (510) 865-7007

Classic Viognier, with enormously attractive pineapple, mango, peach and honeysuckle flavors and a rich honeyed finish, and the wine is dry and crisp. There’s a voluptuously creamy texture that makes it especially attractive. ——S.H.(11/1/2006)—— 90