If you’re going to do California Viognier, might as well let ’er rip with the exotic stuff. This heady wine does just that, offering a mouthful of ripe mango, papaya, nectarine, peach, clove and vanilla flavors in a richly creamy package. There’s nothing subtle about it, just sheer hedonism. ——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 87