High-toned black- and blueberry fruit, with distinctive eucalyptus overtones, play on the bouquet. Ditto on the palate, where nice earthy notes thankfully keep the brightness in check. As a package, the wine tastes a little stylized, even confected, as though it’s been manipulated to death. Even the stellar 1998 vintage didn’t measure up to its hefty price tag, which makes the ’99 even less of a bargain. —D.M. ——D.T.(3/1/2003)—— 86
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