The 2004 Barolo Fossati Case Nere Riserva 10 anni comes from a more balanced vintage (without big heat spikes) that shows a pretty garnet color. The structure is there and the bouquet is ever changing and fluid. There’s a hint of dark fruit followed by spice, cola, dark truffle with tar notes of black granite and pencil shaving. This is second year this wine is produced. The wine is bottled after 24 months in oak and rests in bottle for six to seven years. There’s a lot a fresh fruit left, despite its age. Drink: 2016-2034. Roberto Voerzio started buying prized vineyard parcels in 1982 and has since amassed one of the most important portfolios of single-vineyards (15 parcels over totaling 12 hectares) in La Morra (with Sarmassa and a piece of Cerequio in the neighboring township of Barolo). He follows a unique winemaking philosophy that is somewhere on the spectrum between traditionalists and modernist, but Roberto himself brushes off these broad stroke categories with a shrug and a smile. “In the years between 2003 and 2007, my approach to oak changed over and over. I went from larger containers to smaller ones and back again to larger,” he says: “Ultimately no one really noticed. What is noticeable however is his non-interventionist’s approach. He uses ambient years without sulfites for the fermentations followed by spontaneous malolactic fermentations and does not filter. He also chooses different bottle formats to represent each wine (with a generous array of large format bottles) and sells them in meticulously numbered lots. Fossati was latest acquisition with 20 and 30 years vines. Importer: Winebow, www.winebow.com