The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière was marked by a light touch of reduction, with leesy top notes of nutmeg and bread dough mingling with its bouquet of orchard fruit, confit lemon and toasted nuts. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and expansive, with the broadest shoulders and the most mid-palate amplitude of any premier cru in the range, balanced by juicy acids and concluding with a taut finish that I suspect is slightly shorted by the wine's youthful reduction. Experience suggests that the only missing ingredient is a couple years of bottle age.
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