The Messmer 2008 Riesling Kabinett trocken Buntsandstein (from the Altenforst) makes a bright and invigorating impression, its acidity reinforced by the effect of residual CO2, and its spiced apple, peach, honeydew melon, and lemon accepted by a lick of salt and bitterness of fruit pit. As it opened up to the air over a half hour period, an attractive suggestion of peony rose from the glass. Enjoy it over the next 3-5 years. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300