Grown on the Sonoma side of the appellation, in one of the coolest, windiest parts, this is quite simply a delicious Syrah. The grapes achieved perfect ripeness, yielding immense blackberry jam, cherry, chocolate, tangerine zest, coffee and gingersnap cookie flavors. Yet that coastal acidity is there, scrubbing and cleansing the palate.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 92