The Moreau 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Grandes Rouchottes smells of fresh lime and cassis, ripe peach and pineapple, and comes onto the palate with correspondingly effusive fruit concentration and refreshment. This has the elegance and lift of so many of the best 2007s without sacrificing a sense of underlying extract or minerality, in this case, an amalgam of chalky, stony, as well as Chablis-like meat stock elements. While it is less bracing and energetic than a couple of the other crus in its collection, there is a sense of transparency to nuance here – including a subtly bitter-sweet inner-mouth floral dimension – that will keep you enthralled through its protracted finish. This fascinating, polished 2007 should be worth following for at least 5-7 years.
With the ascendance of a new generation – Alexandre (largely in the cellar) and Benoit Moreau largely in the vineyards – the vines of the Bernard Moreau estate are getting more meticulous care and their wines gentler, longer elevage notably 6 months in tank after the wines' stay in barrel. I did not have an opportunity to visit them but was thrilled with the samples I tasted (save for a Chassagne Morgeot that was inexplicably too reduced to adequately assess, much less savor).
Imported by The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, also Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; tel: (516) 327-0808
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