Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

露森酒莊艾登納天階園雷司令小房酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：9043

Lemon, sassafras, and black tea pungent smokiness in the nose of Loosen’s 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett lead to a polished, cooling display of herb, honeydew melon, and citrus that finishes with effortless refreshment and whiff of smoke and a kiss of wet stone. Here is another little classic of its type apt to perform well for 15-20 years. “I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Shows wonderful purity of fruit—green apple and lime, perhaps a touch of flower shop greens—and impreccable balance, being light in body, off dry, crisp and refreshing. Delicious. ——J.C.(3/1/2011)—— 89