Pineapple, tangerine, sassafras, and lime scent the Loosen 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett and lusciously yet delicately saturate the palate. As with all of the best Loosen Rieslings this vintage, this displays great textural allure in the form of subtle creaminess and lees enhancement, yet delivers all the citric refreshment and vivid red slate smokiness one could ask for in its long finish. An outstanding value, it also represents the driest tasting of the collection’s sweet wines, and while it will doubtless retain its freshness for 15 or more years, it’s the Loosen Kabinett (aside from his feinherb) that I would first choose to utilize today. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage’s collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes to residually sweet Kabinett – a genre in which Loosen has long excelled – his frequently-voiced concerns that “the real thing” was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and feather-light. Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre – while consisting of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat – is superb. What’s more, even cellarmaster Bernard Schug voiced his amazement at just how little sweetness most of the residually sweet wines display.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255
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