Showing more tension and energy, the 2011 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard is a knockout effort in the lineup. Layered with Asian spice, black cherries, mint, underbrush and crushed flower like aromas and flavors, this beauty hits the palate with medium to full-bodied, layered, elegant and beautifully balanced profile that has nothing out of place, integrated acidity and sound underlying structure. Given the overall balance and purity, it’s certainly accessible now, but will no doubt evolve gracefully for up to a decade.
This was a mammoth tasting with winemaker Adam Tolmach and assistant Fabien Castel. While I had a number of these shipped to my office in Colorado (where I was able to follow the wines for multiple days), there were still upward of 30 bottles to taste through when I showed up at the estate. Adam continues to pull in his harvest dates, and in a number of cases, has released two cuvees from each vineyard, one harvested early (the Special Bottling) and one harvested later, which is still on the early edge. I have mixed feelings about the new style here, and while these early pick dates give his wines beautiful tension, acidity and energy, it comes at the expense of texture and richness, and the wines have a sappy, resinous, if not green, character that won’t be for everyone. Nevertheless, there are certainly some outstanding wines here.
Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com
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