Hirtzberger’s 2004 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain offers a lovely aroma of yellow plum, fresh lemon, and diverse, pungently scented flowers. The palate impression of this medium-bodied wine is juicy and invigorating, with a fine, rich, nutty, plum pit-accented substrate beneath its citrus and flowers. Then comes a finish of enormous, graceful length combining citrus and salts, plummy fruit, flowers, nut oils and mineral notes. This is a model of the ability of Austrian Riesling to amass sheer fruit and mineral density without sacrificing elegance or interplay of flavors, as well as to exhibit a tail that wags the entire taster, forget the dog. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Plump and juicy, this displays peach, floral and citrus aromas and flavors on a vibrant profile. Harmonious and lingering nicely, with a mineral accent on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 20 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add

Thickly textured in the mouth, serving only to amplify the initial impressions of minerals and crushed stones. Apple and citrus flavors add crispness, turning downright zesty on the finish. Drink now-2020.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 90