The Earl Grey tea-scented 1999 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain is medium-bodied, tangy, and silky-textured. Minerals, quinine, zesty citrus fruits, and candied white berries are found in this well-delineated and persistent wine. Projected maturity: now-2008. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700.