A wine that did not perform as well out of bottle as it did from cask is the 2003 Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes, which has taken on some hard tannins as well as a lean, austere personality. I liked it much more last year. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029,Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048