The 2009 Pinot Noir Garys’ is an overt, juicy Pinot, with less in the way of aromatic complexity but more fruit than the Rosella’s, largely owing to the warmer microclimate here. Sensual and caressing through to the finish, the Garys’ bottling is another stunningly beautiful wine from Roar. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. This is a set of sublime, elegant wines from Gary and Rosella Franscioni at Roar. The Franscionis own a number of vineyards, including Rosella’s, Sierra Mar and Garys’ (with the Pisoni family), all in the Santa Lucia Highlands. In addition to making their own wines, the Franscionis also sell fruit to a number of small, artisanal wineries. The Franscioni’s latest project is Sierra Mar, a dramatic hillside vineyard with multiple exposures and one isolated, striking plot that looks like a setting for an opening scene in a James Bond movie. Tel. (831) 675-1681; www.roarwines.com

A big Pinot Noir, explosive in cherry and raspberry fruit, but no mere fruit bomb. The tannins are thick and interesting, there’s plenty of zesty acidity, and there’s something minerally and tangy from the soil. Drink this wine now and over the next 6–8 years, as it gradually ages.——S.H.(7/1/2011)—— 92