Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The Jost 2009 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs – like last year’s rendition – reached 13.5% alcohol, but manages to handle it more adeptly, albeit with a hint of heat. Grapefruit, papaya, and banana aromas lend a tropical tone that persists on a full, soothingly glycerin-rich, but satisfyingly juicy palate, while hints of nut paste and honey – despite the wine’s dryness – lend an almost confectionary hint. I would plan on drinking this over the next 5-7 years, suspecting that it will never aspire to elegance. For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463