Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mittelrhein, Germany

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A promising sweet Hahn Kabinett was slightly obscured by youthful yeastiness on the nose and was a bit sweet-sour on this occasion. The 2004 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs was harvested near the end of October from only a single cluster per vine. Grapefruit, banana, pineapple and toasted nut aromas soar from the glass. Rich tropical fruit and deep nuttiness on the palate are balanced with bracing salts, bright citrus, and something I can only call “l(fā)iquid stone.” all of which cling impressively in the finish. Intensity, clarity and interplay of flavors are the watchwords with this superb dry Riesling. Even with a Grosses Gewachs, opines Jost, the wine should not be alcoholic (this one is 13%), should be playful, and should be able to get up and dance. I’ll second that! There has long been a provision for drip lines in the Hahn as a controlled experiment, but Peter Jost says that Mother Nature pretty much delivered the right amount of water in 2004 without technological assistance. This is not the first year in which the starting point for Jost’s wines was a must weight legally sufficient for Auslese. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300