Candied ginger and maraschino scent the Drouhin 2007 Volnay Clos des Chenes, and shadow a rich, dark carpet of cherry fruit on the palate. But the finish here is a bit disappointingly short, and in addition, I’d prefer a bit more complexity even if it were at the price of some rusticity. Still, this is lovely as far as it goes, and it can be enjoyed over the next 3-4 years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The cherry, licorice and spice aromas need air to emerge, yet this rather stylish Volnay offers sweet fruit, licorice and mineral flavors on a chewy texture. Intense and long. Best from 2012 through 2021. 175 cases imported.??–BS??Region: France / Burgundy / Volnay Select to Add