Tasted on the heels of a generic bottling that was a bit shrill, marginally ripe, and lacking in stuffing, and a spare if well-concentrated Chablis Les Beugnons, the Long-Depaquit 2007 Chablis Les Lys offers high-toned herbal and chalky mineral character in the nose and a satisfyingly bright, citric palate impression, which cherry pit, apple pip and crushed stone do not render excessively austere. There is admirable persistence as well as a nice sense of textural pliancy here, and I'd like to revisit this after another year in bottle, but it is still something of a letdown compared with the youthful performance of the 2006. Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot - like a number of Chablis growers - began picking September 6; took a few days pause soon thereafter; and finished around mid-month. Given the higher acid levels, he elected to slightly more actively work those lees that were retained, one of several instances I noted in Chablis this vintage that countered a general trend in recent years toward lees passivity in Burgundy.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com