From the lowest slopes above Milly (and the opposite end of the stretch of vineyards entitled to share the name “Vaillons”) the Long-Depaquit 2006 Chablis Les Lys combines some of the honeyed richness of the corresponding Vaillon bottling with the prominent minerality and finishing penetration of the Beugnons. Sage, resin, cherry stone, salt, chalk, shrimp shell reduction, and a hint of honey inform this impressively substantial yet refreshing and refined premier cru that finishes with impressive grip. I would not hesitate to follow it for 3-5 years. I found the 2005 Les Lys especially impressive as well. It seems plausible to hypothesize that this site is privileged in a period of climatic warming. The Long-Depaquit estate has been owned by the Bichot family of Beaune negociants for more than three decades, and with the re-emergence of that house as a quality force, one hopes that more attention will be paid to some of the most distinctive and age-worthy wines from one of the largest estates (including 1/6 of the grand cru acreage) in Chablis. Director Matthieu Mangenot and his team harvested in only 12 days.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com