The 2009 Cornas Chante Perdrix is all of that, but slightly softer because of the style of the vintage. It is hard to say that any Cornas can be opulent because the tannins are often off the charts, but this 2009 has a voluptuous opening on the palate before the tannins begin to ratchet up. Inky/purple-hued, layered and full-bodied, it offers notes of smoked meats, duck, Chinese black tea, blackberries and licorice. It is an enormously inky, thick wine that needs to be forgotten for 5-6 years and drunk over the following 20-25 years.
Another great negociant with significant vineyard holdings, and at the top of their game, is undeniably Delas, owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm. Since they acquired Delas well over a decade ago, this firm has been under the management of Burgundian Jacques Grange, who has done an outstanding job producing a sensational array of wines. The 2009s appear to be their finest overall performances to date, and the 2010s are noteworthy successors in a more restrained, mineral dominated, crisper style. Jacques Grange did a fabulous job with his Cote Roties in both 2009 and 2010, the latter being a somewhat more challenging vintage in this appellation. The Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes (until the 2009 vintage, this offering was known as the Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette) is sensational in both 2010 and 2009. Three thousand cases of this cuvee are produced, and the wine is aged in French oak, 50% new.
Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000
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