Made in the Schug style, which is to emphasize a balanced, drinkable wine meant to assist food, not overwhelm it. Yet this Pinot is not an austere bystander. Dry and silky, it has intricate cherry, currant, tea, herb, cola and spice flavors that will make a chef’s or sommelier’s task easy. ——S.H.(11/1/2008)—— 89