Specially selected lots account for this top-of-the-line bottling. It’s really very good. The fruit tends toward raspberries and cherries, and it’s smooth as silk in the mouth. The nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon and peppery notes last for a long time on the finish. The difference between this and the typical Carneros bottling is intensity; the fruit is more focused. It’s the difference, say, between a flashlight and a laser. ——S.H.(2/1/2001)—— 93