The deep ruby/purple-hued 2004 James Berry Vineyard (500 cases) is a blend of 38% Syrah, 36% Grenache, and 26% Mourvedre. Sweet kirsch, licorice, cassis, and floral notes are found in this supple, round, tasty effort. Reminiscent of a 2003 Cotes de Nuits grand cru red Burgundy, it is complex as well as surprisingly forward. However, I suspect there is plenty in reserve. It will be interesting to follow this wine’s evolution. I do not think it will be one of Proprietor Justin Smith’s blockbusters, but it’s a beauty. Tel. (805) 227-4662

A gorgeous wine, soft as old kid leather, with impressively ripe blackberry pie, chocolate, anise and coffee flavors. Although it’s high in alcohol, the wine isn’t hot. Defines West Paso Rhone reds. 85% Syrah, plus Grenache and Mourvedre. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 93