Collet's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is now in bottle, and it's easier to understand than the single-barrel sample I tried last year. Bursting with aromas of citrus blossom, peaches and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a saline, aromatic finish. From vines planted in 1972, it's an unusually musky, exotic expression of Valmur, and readers looking for a more austere, tensile vision of Chablis will find it disconcerting.