The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur displays a rich bouquet of poached pears, peaches, nutmeg and clove that's quite marked by new wood. On the palate, it's full-bodied, fat and textural, even unctuous, with open-knit structure and a saline finish. Readers that gravitate toward thick, oaky expressions of Chablis will appreciate it more than I did.