Madame Bize-Leroy describes the 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru as "civilized", which I interpret to mean that this inherently supple, elegant vintage has tamed some of the climat's tendency to muscular power—an analysis with which I concur. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of cassis, dark berries, black truffles, rich soil tones and hints of rose petal and peony, the wine is full-bodied, deep and textural, with impressive concentration and rich but refined structuring tannins. The finish is long, sapid and perfumed. While I'm often inclined to give the domaine's Romanée-Saint-Vivant the edge over the Richebourg, the latter's elegance this year makes it more than usually difficult to pick favorites.
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