The 2005 Cannonau di Sardegna starts off rather subdued, then explodes on the palate with gorgeous inner sweetness, as ethereal cherries, wild herbs, flowers and sweet spices come to life. The wine offers terrific balance, silky tannins and an utterly engaging personality that makes it hard to put the glass down. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Proprietors Heide and Francesco Siclari make intense, powerful wines from their 50 hectares of vineyards. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461