The 2005 Terra di Lavoro is an excellent choice for readers seeking a fairly approachable vintage that won’t require extended cellaring. Because of the cold summer, this is a rather delicate Terra di Lavoro laced with red cherries, crushed flowers and a fresh, vinous quality I find highly appealing. The 2005 is a mid-weight Terra di Lavoro, but the lively acidity should allow the wine to age gracefully for a number of years. The aromatics and flavors aren’t fully developed, but with some air the 2005 is relatively approachable today. It is a beautiful Terra di Lavoro that only suffers from the wines surrounding it. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.
Terra di Lavoro, first produced in 1994, has quickly established itself as one of Italy’s cult wines. I tasted all of these vintages with proprietors Arturo and Dora Celentano during their first visit to the US. The Celentanos have a huge passion for food and wine, and that exuberance comes through loud and clear in these fabulous wines. Terra di Lavoro is 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso from vines planted by consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella beginning in 1991. The fruit is harvested according to ripeness rather than strictly by variety, which means that Aglianico and Piedirosso are sometimes picked and vinified together. After the alcoholic fermentation, the wines are racked into French oak where they remain on their lees for several months. Cotarella describes Aglianico as a hard grape to take through malolactic fermentation. He therefore believes it is essential for the final blend to be made before the wines go into malo. The final blend is assembled and undergoes what is usually a very slow malo, in steel for 80-90% of the wine, prior to being moved back into oak. There is little question that malolactic fermentation in stainless steel contributes significant freshness and aging potential to this heroic southern Italian wine.
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