Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany

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There is even less Diel 2010 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Kabinett than there is of the corresponding Goldloch. Mirabelle and cherry shadowed by their distilled counterparts mingle in the nose with lemon and grapefruit that then emerge in juicy profusion on a succulent palate, with an invigorating and animated if almost strident exchange of citrus and pit fruit essences over a ground of stone lending this Riesling a sustained, musical lilt. While higher in residual sugar, this tastes no sweeter than does the corresponding Goldloch; and the same acids and extract that buffer its sense of sweetness will probably assist in maintaining its freshness and cohesion over at least the next dozen years. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300