Christoffel’s 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett feinherb represents the first wine in years under this label to be in the halbtrocken range of residual sugar. Sassafras and licorice, orange zest, and wood smoke in the nose migrate to a subtly creamy and piquantly nutty as well as intensely herbal and zesty palate. This benefits from a nice, vintage-typical sense of lift and refreshment in the finish, and should prove deliciously versatile for at least the next 6-8 years. Hans-Leo Christoffel can continue to point out that an abundance of ripeness has made for “Pradikat inflation”, yet even he will admit that his and partner Robert Eymael’s 2008 vintage Kabinetts would have been top-notch Spatlesen during the 1980s, but not Auslesen. Speaking of which, not only did Christoffel and Eymael offer a complete range of 2008 Auslesen, they also did not begin picking any of them until late, insisting that there was not enough rain during harvest to dampen and diminish the value of botrytis as it collected on the grapes. Noble rot affected around 20-30% of the base material for those wines, an impressive group if not (in its early days, at least) on the stellar level often reached at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A very ripe version, with apricot, black currant and orange notes offset by mouthwatering acidity. Builds in intensity to a lingering aftertaste of sun-ripened orchard fruit. Drink now through 2018.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add