One of d'Arenberg's leanest, less exuberant offerings is the 2000 The High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon. This dark ruby-colored effort offers notions of cedar and black currants, but seems monolithic, straightforward, and simple by the standards of this estate's other wines. Perhaps I caught it on a bad day. Drink it over the next 5-8 years. Importer: Rob McDonald, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Solidly built, if lean, a straightforward style of Cabernet with focused currant and berry flavors, which echo softly on the fine-grained finish. Drink now through 2006. 2,000 cases made.??–HS??Region: Australia / McLaren Vale-Coonawarra Select to Add

The wine is 80% from McLaren Vale vineyards, and it’s chunky with mild hints of tomato both in the nose and on the palate. Otherwise it’s full of red-berry fruit, and the finish features a hefty dose of oak-based vanillin and coffee. Aggressive and racy; probably best with food. ——M.S.(12/15/2002)—— 89