The finest California rose may emerge from Tablas Creek. Their 2004 Rose, a dead-ringer for a California version of Tavel, is a full-throttle, big, exuberant, dry example bursting with character. Fashioned from 62% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache, and 10% Counoise, its deep pink color is followed by a stunning nose of plums, raspberries, and figs. Full-bodied, with superb fruit as well as tremendous crispness and authority, this is amazing stuff. However, like virtually all roses, it is best consumed during its first 12 months of life to take advantage of its aromatics and fresh flavors. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

The purest, most powerful aromas and flavors of cherries dominate this Rhone blend, but it’s not a simple wine. The cherries are joined with red raspberries, vanilla, sweet anise, white pepper and tangerine zest, boosted by crisp acidity. This is a beautiful, dry, long-finished wine. ——S.H.(10/1/2005)—— 90