The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Galets Blonds is fashioned from extremely old Grenache vines in La Crau, the sector of eastern Chateauneuf du Pape where some of the finest wines of the appellation emerge (Bonneau's Reserve des Celestins, Vieux-Telegraphe, and Font du Michelle for example). It is even more sensational from bottle than it was from foudre. Classic notes of new leather, dried Provencal herbs, kirsch liqueur, and smoke are intense and persistent. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, with layers of glycerin and extract. The finish lasts for over 30 seconds. There is some tannin to shed, but the overall impression is of a large-scaled, concentrated, traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape. Sadly, there are only 8,600 bottles of this blockbuster. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0140, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625