Readers looking for a restrained style should check out the low-key 1999 Shiraz Brookman. With 13.5% alcohol, modest for a Clarendon Hills, this dark ruby/purple-colored wine offers a spicy nose of black fruits intermixed with ketchup and vanilla. The wine is excellent, full-bodied, pure, ripe, and impressive. It is measured and elegant. Imported by The Australian Premium Wine Collection, John Larchet, USA Wine West, LLC, San Rafael, CA; phone: (800)-485-5753 and Chicago Brands, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 466-9300.