Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Mulheimer Helenenkloster Riesling Eiswein, Mosel, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：5062

Reflecting botrytis-free bunches picked ahead of his “regular” Eiswein, Richter’s “two-star” 2009 Muhlheimer Helenenkloster Riesling Eiswein** boasts higher acidity yet greater harmony – and, unsurprisingly, greater purity – than its lesser, day-younger sibling. Pear nectar shot through with fresh lemon, white currant, and honey inform a polished, glycerin-rich palate, and the confectionary and efficacious acidity here check one another’s temptations toward excess. This penetrating, persistent Eiswein may well gain complexity over the coming decade, though like most of its practically inevitably wild card genre, it should be monitored if one is thinking about holding it for longer. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

Glazed, caramelized pineapple and white raisin point toward the botrytis element in Richter’s December 18 2009 Muhlheimer Helenenkloster Riesling Eiswein, while bright fresh lemon and sharp, musky radish underscore its status as a product of hard-frozen fruit. But these two aspects are a bit at odds at least for now, and the acidity here doesn’t exactly translate into refreshment. That’s said, one can’t argue with the sheer if rather confectionary finish of this assertive Eiswein. Those with a gambler’s spirit might want to try cautiously cellaring some. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800