Black olives, earthiness, dark fruit, herbs and licorice emerge as the 2006 Rusciano (Syrah) opens up in the glass. Elements of rusticity detract from the overall balance. As good as the Rusciano is, it isn't as convincing as the estate's wines from indigenous grapes. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. These new releases from Valle dell-Acate are impressive. Best of all, most of these wines can be had for less than $25 a bottle.Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Rusciano is a new wine from Valle dell’Acate (a blend of native Sicilian varieties and Syrah) that shows very ripe characteristics of cherry, raspberry and spice. You can taste the mature black fruit here thanks to the wine’s chewy, succulent density. ——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 88