Scents of beeswax and lemon tea open into a pretty, lemon-drop flavor set. Winemaker Steve Lessard has softened the sometimes bitter phenolics of the grape, so the fruit flavors, though not quite tropical, are ripe and smooth as they open up. Hints of pineapple, lemon and grapefruit mingle to create a user-friendly, approachable wine.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 88