Moet’s vintage, from the hot, low-yielding 2003 vintage, has an unusually high percentage of Pinot Meunier (43%), suggesting there is a distinct character to the year. It’s certainly powerful and intense, soft initially, hinting at toast and yeast, the fruit almost sweet, even though the wine is a brut style. It is the rich strawberry flavor that’s most surprising on a wine that really has integrated impressively.——R.V.(12/1/2008)—— 93
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