The 2009 Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia is at first quite a bit more floral and ethereal than the Cerretta, but with time in the glass the wine finds its center. The Cascina Francia dazzles with its combination of expressive, generous fruit and insistent minerality. Sweet herbs, roses, spices, anise, licorice and leather add complexity to a core of radiant fruit. This is a regal, aristocratic Barbera of the highest level. The 2009 has the openness of vintages such as 2007, but with the medium-bodied structure and finesse of silkier vintages such as 2004, which is a very appealing combination. This is a very complete, harmonious wine from Roberto Conterno. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2029.
The drive from Barolo to Monforte was a little different this year. Peering across the valley over the hillside where the Conterno winery sits, the observant eye will notice a number of large barrels outside the main building. Roberto Conterno had no choice but to replace a number of his casks this year as the staves had begun to bend from many years of use, and Conterno was understandably afraid of the unthinkable, that the casks could finally yield to old age full of wine. Still, he was clearly upset by having to replace barrels that he personally moved into the new winery with his father during the summer of 1985. Just to think of the wines that were racked during that move. The 1978, 1979 and 1982 Monfortini were still in cask. To be honest, seeing the empty space in the winery as the new casks were about to arrive was quite a shock. The wines, however, were not. I tasted all of the wines currently in cask plus the new releases from bottle. My high expectations were easily surpassed. Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. Roberto Conterno has decided to give his new Nebbiolo from the Cerretta vineyard another year in barrel. At the moment Conterno is leaning towards releasing the 2009 as a Langhe Nebbiolo rather than Barolo, although that could always change. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Conterno may want to take a look at my video interview with Roberto Conterno.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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