The 2018 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is superb, offering up aromas of citrus oil, honey and white flowers mingled with notions of ripe apricots and other stone fruit. Full-bodied, layered and textural, with an enveloping core of fruit girdled by racy acids and chalky structuring extract, it's long and penetrating, concluding with a resonant finish.