The 1991 La Landonne will provide multi-millionaires with plenty of pleasure over the next 20 years. They can also debate whether it or the perfect 1990 is the better wine. The 1991's bouquet offers huge, smoky, new saddle leather, licorice, Asian spice, and meaty, cassis scents. Black in color, with layers of richness, huge body, massive extraction, and a phenomenal finish, it is another legend from Marcel Guigal. It will be the least precocious of the 1991s, needing until the turn of the century to open and develop; it should keep for 25-30+ years. Readers should be getting in their reservations now for Guigal's 1991 single vineyard Cote Roties. In 1991, Cote Rotie enjoyed the most success of any appellation of France. The harvest was completed before the damaging rains arrived. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; Tel. (617) 731-6644

Deep and muscular, this is the most concentrated and tannic of the '91s. It's meaty, smoky and spicy, with ripe plum flavors. Drink beginning in 2000.--Guigal Cote-Rotie vertical. -TM